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The Science of Pizza

Dario Bressanini [Le Scienze 453]

The dough and the leavening are critical to the success of one of Italian dishes more 'famous world: better to rely on chemistry and thermodynamics

In molte famiglie resiste ancora la tradizione di preparare la pizza in casa impastando acqua, farina e lievito. Una conoscenza dei processi chimici e fisici che avvengono durante la preparazione dell'impasto può aiutare noi pizzaioli casalinghi a preparare una pizza migliore. Esistono vari tipi di farine, ottenute macinando i più svariati cereali, ma quella utilizzata per preparare la pizza è la farina di frumento che contiene circa il 70% di amido, un carboidrato, e tra l'8% e il 13% di proteine. La farina di frumento si distingue da molte altre per presenza di due proteine, la glutenina e la gliadina, che a contatto con l'acqua formano un complesso proteico called gluten that gives dough quell'elasticità and plasticity key to turn it into pizzas, focaccia bread and a thousand different forms. Another key ingredient and
'yeast, whose aim is to produce carbon dioxide, used to inflate the dough. Yeasts are unicellular organisms that belong to the kingdom of fungi. These organisms, commonly used for making bread and alcoholic beverages in contact with water, through the fermentation process, transform the sugars into carbon dioxide and alcohol. When the yeast dissolve in water you have to be careful to use warm water but at a temperature not exceeding 45-50 degrees, not to kill it before it has done its job, otherwise it will fail to leaven the dough.
In trade there are also packages of instant yeast pizza, with a leavening agent already mixed with flour. In this case it is not living organisms but a mixture of two or more components, usually an alkaline substance, sodium bicarbonate and an acidic substance, such as potassium acid tartrate (the so-called cream of tartar) or gluconate delta lactone, which immediately react in the presence of water producing CO 2 . In this case they will fail dough aromas that are typical of yeasts and give it a distinctive flavor.
Once formed the gluten, you knead. During the dough the gluten molecules begin to form long chains. S'impasta longer, more gluten chains stretch into line with each other, creating links between them and forming a complex three-dimensional network that gives elasticity to the dough. If the grid is sufficiently dense, also helped partially hydrated starch, will be able to retain the form of bubbles of carbon dioxide formed during fermentation. is for this reason that the phase of the dough is very important for the success of a good pizza: un impasto frettoloso non permette al glutine di formare il reticolo, e rimane solo una massa informe appiccicosa difficile da stendere sulla teglia. Dopo l'impasto il lievito agisce al meglio lasciando la pasta a riposo a circa 35 gradi.
Anche la percentuale di acqua aggiunta alla farina è importante al fine di far ottenere alla pasta della pizza la consistenza desiderata. Può capitare di aver sbagliato ad aggiungere l'acqua, di avere manipolato la pasta per troppo tempo, o di averla lasciata lievitare troppo poco. In questo caso la pasta è troppo elastica e non ne vuole sapere di essere stesa sulla teglia. Si può risolvere il problema "allentando" un poco il reticolo gluten by increasing the temperature. Between 60 and 80 degrees the starch begins to gel and the proteins start to denature, ie to change their structure. Put the pan for a few minutes with the dough "recalcitrant" in the oven (started at 60 degrees to avoid drying out the pulp). After treatment the dough less elastic and will stretch without any problems.
Then, like a script, add mozzarella, tomato sauce, a drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of salt. Bake and let the thermodynamic take its course.